During late October
into November we travelled for 4 weeks through mainland China and 3 of their
autonomous regions they being Tibet, Hong Kong and Macau, being educated about
China’s history and observing the momentum of this juggernaut.
Starting in China’s
capital and using internal flights, high speed trains, boats or cars we visited these cities/locations in this order:
Beijing
-> Datong -> Pingyao -> Xian -> Lhasa (Tibet) -> Chengdu -> Chongqing -> Yangtze River -> Yichang -> Shanghai -> Tongil -> Suzhou
-> Hangzhou -> Guilin -> Hong Kong and Macau.
The map below shows
each of these locations within China and the colour coding legend shows our prime
mode of intercity travel.
__________ Plane _____ Train _____ Boat
In each city,
except Hong Kong and Macau, we were met by a local guide who took us on tours
to specific sights and provided the details for each.
Will cover some highlights
for each location later in this post along with photos naturally, but after
spending a fair bit of time in within China, would like to start with some of
our broader observations about it.
General Impressions Of China
What follows is not
at times meant to be a little negative… that’s not the intention because any descriptions
are simply what we observed, and to be clear we did enjoy our trip to China but
have no real need to return.
Shopping Mall in downtown Beijing |
Make no mistake,
China remains a textbook communist country but to be honest, it’s a little hard
to tell because the Government has instigated some highly visible elements of
capitalism.
We never felt we were being
controlled or watched through our entire visit.
Their cities look
just like ours with businesses everywhere and all the usual brands on show,
including KFC and MacDonalds.
The biggest example
of the Government’s control is their blocking of any use of Google, Gmail,
Facebook, WhatsApp, YouTube or Twitter, but this changed when we reached Hong
Kong.
People in China happily
use Baidu as their Google equivalent (includes maps etc) and WeChat instead of Google,
WhatsApp or Facebook and the widespread use of technology is very impressive.
Plan & Vision
There was a palpable
and constant sense China is working to achieve its big vision and long term plan
because you can see it physically everywhere with the unbelievable volume of
construction going on, hear it from the guides and see it on the State run English
TV channels.
There was also constant
reference to China’s ‘Belt & Road’ trade initiative and its very clear
China has its fingers into lots of other countries.
We constantly read/saw
the reporting of their involvement in Africa, Laos, Vietnam and this list goes
on and on, building roads, railways and other infrastructure within each
country.
The analogy I would like
to paint for you is of a China octopus with its head over its own country, its
tentacles able to reach anywhere in the world and with specific ‘involvement suckers’
firmly planted onto many countries.
Remember… its only
been in the last 20+ years that the migration of its people into huge cities
and large banks of apartments construction, and its massive road and high speed
train networks have been built. We were
also impressed by the quality of their internal airlines.
China has massive momentum as it continues to grow and get stronger and we believe their
people know it.
The People
Its an obvious
comment but there is a LOT of people in China and if in this post you happen to
see a photo without people in it, its just a fluke because we were always amongst
people, lots and lots of people.
They are very
industrious, usually good humoured and polite, until you’re in a queue, a loose
description, where once its time to move, you get pushed, elbowed and charged
past or people simply cut in if you aren’t careful. They are very impatient and with very little
sense of personal space.
It’s the only way
they think things will get done and if you stick with manners, you will be left
behind, so fairly quickly, we learned to ‘compete’ the way they do. There is a stark difference however when comparing
walking around in highly populated busy locations in both China and Japan, the
latter being very polite.
In some of the
smaller cities we visited, the locals would simply also walk up very
close to us and just stare at us, especially at Rob with her blond hair,
but we eventually got used to that also.
Driving in China
Now if you want to do
something really exciting, try driving, because we have seen nothing quite like
it, even in Italy! The use of traffic lanes
seems fairly arbitrary and people will stop in very odd places to do what they
had in their mind at the time… even on freeways. They drive how they behave in queues; they
are always in a competition.
When they turn
left, our equivalent of a right hand turn, they just turn across in front of
oncoming traffic and a bluff negotiation commences. Changing lanes or merging into traffic is
another constant bluff negotiation accompanied by horn blowing.
We did learn from
our guides there are no formal road rules for pushbikes or motorcycles, so we
had to be very careful when trying to cross roads because traffic lights or
pedestrian crossings meant nothing, they would charge through anyway.
It was even harder
with electric scooters because we couldn’t hear them coming, especially at
night when most don’t have headlights on, probably to save batteries.
The number of times
we saw motorbikes driving in the opposite direction to car traffic lane
splitting on multi lane roads, constantly exciting indeed.
We did discover
after returning, using Google that 260,000 people die on China’s roads each
year and 60% of those aren’t car or truck drivers!
Air Pollution
Probably like you, before
departing for China, we had heard about China’s smog and it was a real concern
to us, but we arrived into clear skies in Beijing and thought, this will be
fine.
View out of our hotel window - Beijing |
It didn’t last very
long and for the bulk of our trip we had to contend with various levels of air
pollution and at times, we did have breathing difficulties or ongoing sinus
issues.
There were other
cities where we enjoyed reasonably clear skies, which provided some short-lived
respite, but we were visiting in autumn and we were constantly told that the
air pollution was worse as the weather cooled.
We saw plenty of evidence of and heard about the work the Government are doing to reduce air pollution (wind farms, solar panel farms, huge hydro generators). Mind you, all our guides referred to what we called smog as fog or mist!
From a photographic
point of view, the same air pollution was a challenge because it diminished the
impact of China’s many spectacular sights because there are a lot of fabulous
things to see.
There is some 'de-hazing software' I have had to use to try and reduce the impact of the smog
on many photos… just so you are aware but will leave some the way they were
taken so that you get a feel for it.
Marriage in China
A couple preparing for their wedding day |
May seem an odd
thing to focus on but we learnt it’s a good thing for parents to have girls
when it comes to marriage because the parents of boys are expected to pay the
30% deposit for an apartment when a couple get married.
The parents of the
couple then put a stack of pressure on them to have children and China has now
moved away from the one child policy to a ‘two delivery’ policy, which means if
a couple say have twins or triplets on their first delivery, they can go again
if the wish.
Most of our guides
were married with a single child and that’s all they were planning on
having. It is also illegal to find out
the sex of your baby before birth.
The parents of each
of our married guides with a child were expected to look after the
grandchildren whilst the parents work and there is a ~20% divorce rate in
China.
Girls who are in their early 30’s
and unmarried apparently find it very hard to find a partner, even though there
are more boys than girls generally.
Security
We were very
surprised by the amount of and intensity of security checking throughout China,
not just for westerners but also the locals.
Our ‘in hold’ bags
were scanned when entering any airport or railway station, backpacks were
scanned entering most of the sights. At
every airport we had to take out computers, cameras, spare batteries and
sometimes the lenses for scanning.
After walking
through the airports’ body scanner, everyone was thoroughly patted down anyway
and at times including checking the soles of our feet.
The Guides
We were very lucky
to have very friendly, highly competent and good English speaking guides in
each location. They were very keen to
proudly show off their country.
We were a little bemused
however at how little they wanted to know about Australia and we simply took it
as a sign that the Chinese don’t see much reason to know much about other
countries because they have all of what they want in their own.
Technology Use
Like most countries
in the world, the Chinese are very heavy users of smartphones BUT what was a
surprise was how much they use their phones to buy things, in fact, most
things. They scan barcodes and the
retailer is paid immediately and when Rob tried to buy something in a store
using a credit card she couldn’t. Had to
use either Alipay or pay with cash.
Dynasties
All our guides did
not talk about historical events or things using dates or a particular century,
they talked in terms of which dynasty things happened in. So what is a dynasty? We were told it is when a particular King
brought the people and Regions of China together, becoming an Emperor and
starting a dynasty. The dynasty might
only last for that Emperor or may span multiple hundreds of years with multiple
Emperors from within the same family. 50%
of the Emperors however die via assassination.
Food
Very simply, Chinese food in China is much more varied and different to what we have available in Australia and we really enjoyed it. There were a few amusing surprises when ordering using pictures and some of the spicy selections were a LOT hotter than expected. In the northern areas of China there is more use of noodles and in the south they prefer rice. All our meals were fresh and delicious.
One of our amusing selections where all the red bits are dried chilli skins and the rest are small bits of chicken and peanuts |
Places We Visited Highlights
For each of the
cities we visited, will focus only on the main highlights but it is fair to say
there were many interesting and enjoyable experiences.
Beijing
Beijing is China’s
capital and their 19th National Congress of the Communist Party
congress was underway when we arrived.
It is a city of ~21.7M people and quite modern.
We took ourselves
via the excellent metro to Lama Temple where there is a 18m high Buddha plus its
8m underground foundation, ALL carved from a single huge white sandalwood tree. It was a gift from the seventh Dalai Lama to
the Quianlong Emperor and took three years to transport it from Tibet to
Beijing.
18 mtrs high and made out of a single tree! |
The truly staggering Great Wall of China |
Just proving we actually were walking The Great Wall |
Crowds admiring the Temple of Heaven |
More crowds reach the centre of the Forbidden City |
The Olympic
precinct is huge and we walked around part of the swimming Cube and Birds Nest
stadium.
Datong
We flew into Datong
early in the morning and actually had the rest of the day to ourselves to
explore alone. Datong, once the most
polluted city in China because of coal mining/use was a very pleasant city,
first settled about 200 BC.
Section of old town of Datong |
We stayed in the middle
of the old walled town that is being renovated, and spent much of our time
without crowds walking through the massive Huayan Monastery before climbing the
old wall at night and being rewarded by the ‘light show’ atop it.
'Light Show' each night on top of the city wall at Datong |
Just one of the Buddah carvings at Yungang Grottoes... |
...and each of them is HUGE |
The Hanging Temple - 1,500 yrs old, snow on the ground and amazing |
Pingyao
A few hours drive from
Datong is the ancient city of Pingyao, again a walled city and where cars are
not allowed inside its walls. It is tiny
by China standards at 50,000 people and full of narrow little roads and lanes filled
with very old buildings, many dating back to 800BC.
Rooftop view of the ancient city of Pingyao |
Entrance to our hotel Pingyao |
Dining area in our 289 yr old hotel, Pingyao |
There are no nails in the Pagoda of Fogong but a few bullets |
The UNESCO listed Shuanglin
Monastery is a mystery to the Chinese who have no idea who built it, except it
was founded in 571 AD. It’s different to
others we saw because it’s still very original and we could see how each statue
was built using a timber frame then clay/grass used to form each shape.
Xi’an
After our first
‘queue race’ to the rail carriages of a high speed train for the trip from
Pingyao to Xi’an, we endured a few stares as the only westerners in our carriage. Xi’an has a population of 6.5M and its history
goes back 6,500 yrs and is regarded as THE start of the ‘Silk Road’ trading
route with the west.
We were here to
visit the world famous 2,200 year old Terracotta Warriors and they are truly spectacular,
every single statue is unique, very detailed and originally included their weapons.
There were also 2 sets of amazingly detailed and scaled down teams of bronze
horses and carriages.
The Terracotta Warriors still standing guard for their Emporer |
Each statue is unique but look at the detail in the hair for example |
Scaled down bronze horses and carriage over 2,000 years old |
The Chinese certainly know how to put on a great show |
Lhasa – Tibet
One of the big
attractions for us was being able to visit Tibet, about a 3hr flight from
Xi’an, the last hour or so across hundreds of snow capped mountains before
following a long valley to the city.
View as we drove from airport to Lhasa |
A local Tibetan enjoying life |
Tibetans are very
devout Buddhists and have a history involving the reign of Kings and then
multiple Dalai Lamas.
They believe in reincarnation and still practice ‘air burials’ which means vultures devour the dead body laid out on burial platforms as a way of returning what humans have gained from the land & water.
They believe in reincarnation and still practice ‘air burials’ which means vultures devour the dead body laid out on burial platforms as a way of returning what humans have gained from the land & water.
The many Tibetans
we met seemed very gentle and extremely good-humoured in their interactions.
We climbed up LOTS of steps to and through the iconic Potala Palace, built by the 5th Dalai Lama 1,300 yrs ago and the youngest relic inside it is 500 yrs old. It’s also the burial place for a few Dalai Lamas in massive gold Stupas created by locals after their death, the size and adornments of it determined by the reverence the people held for the Dalai Lama being buried within it.
The iconic 1,300 year old Potala Palace |
With lots of and lots of steps throughout |
The Tibetans are VERY relaxed about the quality of the paintwork |
A Stupa (crypt) for one of the previous Dalai Lamas which consists of precious stones & tonnes of gold |
A pilgrim moving clockwise around Jokhang Temple regularly prostrating himself |
The roof of Jokhang Temple |
Masses of pilgrims place their foreheads at the base of the 2,000 yr old 'image' of a Princess (thanks to Google) |
Summer Palace for the Dalai Lamas |
Drepung Monastery... one of many large monasteries around Lhasa |
We were very thankful
for our guide being with us as our flight kept going backwards… waiting…
waiting… waiting and then our guide almost nonchalantly says, “will be okay if
me not here, they must look after you if no get on flight tonight as you must
be left from Tibet today, permit finished!
Will show you counter”.
After a 3.5 hrs wait
and to great relief… we boarded our flight.
Chengdu
Chengdu is one of
the oldest settlements in southwest China going back over 2,300 years but is
now a modern city of ~18M people. We
were here for one primary reason… Pandas!
Panda Base is the
primary Panda research facility in China and the world. It is truly a fantastic set up and we saw
many Panda adults, sub-adults, pandas in trees, cute babies just starting to
walk and the aggressive red pandas.
Then a surprise when
we visited a museum to see many ancient remains of the Shu Civilization, who
were very sophisticated almost 4,500 yrs ago and built a huge walled city.
Feeding Panda |
Snoozing Panda |
Baby Panda |
Hanging Panda |
Red Panda |
4,500 year old Shu gold mask |
Ancient Shu bronze work |
One of a few large bronze 'trees' the Shu created in bronze... one almost 7 mtrs tall |
Chongqing
We took a bullet
train from Chengdu to Chongqing, with a city centre of 12M and 33M if you
include the surrounding areas, and with high air pollution levels to match. Our guide took us quickly through Chongqing
old town before going to the boat for a 3 day cruise down the Yangtze River.
Yangtze River Cruise
The Yangtze River
is ~6,300 kms long and we travelled downstream about 10% of its length on one
of the numerous very large riverboats.
Our river cruise boat |
We made shore
excursions at Feng Du or the Ghost City and the only location in China focussed
on the underworld, then another excursion to Shibaozhai or Red Pagoda built in
1819 and now protected by a wall due to the rising water caused by the building
of the 3 Gorges Dam.
Worshipper in Feng Du temple complex |
Red Temple at Shibaozhai |
Small boat excursion to the Goddess Stream |
The Yangtze River
is famous for the massive project called The Three Gorges Dam and the actual
gorges are really tall when you sail through them. Either side of the river were large cities of
over 1M people each that had to be rebuilt on higher ground and all the people
relocated into them.
Riverboats entering the gorges |
3 Gorges Dam wall and small ship lift facility, well part of it |
Shanghai
We only had 1 full
day in Shanghai, a very modern and clean city of 24M people, and we were lucky
to have clear skies with minimal air pollution.
We enjoyed our
visit to the Shanghai Museum to see very old and historical examples of
painting, clothing, calligraphy, pottery and of course, works in bronze.
There is a very
pleasant French Quarter in Shanghai and is also the location for the building
where the Chinese Communist Party was formed. Finally we visited The Bund, a
walkway and buildings along the waterfront of the Huangpu River.
This is about 5,200 years old! |
Each small Buddah is inly a few cm's high |
This bronze axe head is almost 6,000 years old, from Neolithic times |
Building the Chinese Communist Party was founded in |
View to the financial area of Shanghai from The Bund... |
...and the same view when the lights come on each night |
Tongli
It’s nice to learn
about things you have never heard of and in this case it happened when we
reached a very old small town called Tongli, a few hours drive from Shanghai.
Part of the town of Tongil |
We enjoyed exploring some narrow laneways |
We visited our
first Chinese garden called Tuisi Garden, very different to the gardens in
Japan. They have multiple pavilions
built within the garden and used either for meeting with guests or meditation
for example.
There was water and
plants but also rocks, the Chinese like their rocks, which must have holes
through them the water can flow through but without pooling and being held by the rock.
Water within the Tuisi Garden and another pavilion... |
...and one of many decorative 'rocks' within the garden |
Suzhou
Suzhou is a small
city of a mere 4.3M located about 100kms north west of Shanghai and also
benefits from the waters flowing along the Grand Canal.
The local sights included
Tiger Hill, the burial place of King Helü in 496 BC and obtaining its name
because as legend tells it, a white tiger appeared at his tomb just after his
burial. The tomb has never been opened.
We also visited 2
more different but equally beautiful gardens, the small intimate Net Garden and
the very large but discrete Humble Administrators Garden.
Hangzhou
After another fast
train journey, we arrived into Hangzhou and the largest railway station we have
ever seen… massive. This city has ~10M
people and is the terminus for the Grand Canal.
After a cruise on
the large but smog covered West Lake and visiting Lingyin Temple, one of the
largest and wealthiest in China, housing 500 1 tonne bronze Buddhist statues.
The Feilai Feng grottoes, also known as
‘Flying Peak’, is where there are many Buddhist reliefs carved into rock including the very
popular laughing Buddha.
Guilin
After a high-speed
train back to Shanghai to catch the only flight available, we arrived into
Guilin late, reaching our hotel at 1am, our guide asking us to meet her again at
8am to catch a boat.
Guilin is one of
China’s most popular destinations, (especially for the Chinese) for taking a day
cruise down the Li River amongst hundreds of limestone karst's or peaks guarding
its banks. It’s a river version of
Halong Bay in Vietnam.
The twin Pagodas visible from our hotel window very early in the morning |
These large flat
bottom boats did a great job navigating the very low water levels at this time
of year, as we enjoyed the constant and vast views from the decks.
Hong Kong
We’ve been to Hong
Kong before, and this bustling large city with unique skyscrapers scattered
everywhere, was a nice way to finish our time in China at our own pace.
Having bought a 2-day,
hop on/off Big Bus pass, we used it to get around to see the highlights this
city has to offer, plus a lot of walking in between.
Have included a map
of our various routes around Hong Kong Island where we stayed, across to
Kowloon and then finally to Macau.
Our travels within Hong Kong (red) and by fast ferry to Macau |
View from the Peak during the day... the night view from the same location is in the additional photo link at the endow this post |
Night time view from Hong Kong harbour level |
Cruising around Aberdeen and its floating restaurants |
One of Hong Kong's original trams circa 1904 |
Macau is famous for its casinos... lots of casinos |
Historical Portugese buildings |
The Portuguese influence could be seen everywhere whilst ambling along narrow shop lined laneways.
We do now have now another thing add to our travel planning checklist… Grand Prix’s!
We happened to visit Macau on the final day of the Macau Grand Prix so to finish China off… there were yet again people clambering everywhere.
We were well and
truly ready to head home to less people and fresh air, but were happy to have
visited and experienced we suspect, only a little of what China has to offer.
To see some additional photos of our trip to China, click on the link below.
CLICK HERE for more photos China 2017