Why...

Two mature aged people who love travelling and learning along the way... Our names are Rob (Robyn) & darian in the 60+ vintage of travellers keen to visit parts of the world which will stretch us mentally, physically and emotionally.

20 September 2012

Botswana 2012

Our time in Botswana would be dominated by visiting two of the primary destinations this country is famous for... first the Okavango River and then later, Chobe National Park.

The Okavango River is the fourth longest river in southern Africa, starting in Angola and travelling 1,600 kms before emptying into the famous and land locked Okavango Delta.  


We would be spending our time in a houseboat on the Okavango River, this time taking wildlife safaris by boat and particularly focussed on the abundant birdlife the river supports.

Enjoying the houseboat on the Okavango River
Some locals cruise past
With so much water around supporting an abundant supply of fish and insects, there were huge numbers of very beautiful birds to watch and photograph... something we had not experienced before.

Here is a small but very colourful sample.
Very elegant Fish Eagle 
Pied Kingfishers at rest
Pied Kingfisher with its catch
Very diminutive Malachite Kingfisher with a catch
Bee-eater with bug
Egret coming into land on the dense reeds
Goliath Heron taking off in search of food
The river is also home to lots of crocodiles...
...sharing the river with locals also trying to find food
Also in Botswana lies the famous Chobe National Park, renowned especially for seeing elephants, and after settling into some very comfortable and large hotel type accomodation, we were soon off looking for wildlife, this time within the hotel grounds itself.

Rob found a few warthogs enjoying munching away on the lawns and decided to get quite close to them.
Up close and personal to a warthog
They didn't take too kindly to her being so close and very soon made her aware of it, those tusks being a great motivator to move back and quickly.

On the other hand, I found some vervet monkeys of which there were plenty, one very curious little one watching us unpack our gear when we first settled in...
Young curious Vervet monkey
Now they look really cute don't they, but while walking around the grounds during our visit, 4-5 of the parents took a dislike to me and threatened to repeatedly attack, until one of the staff came to intervene.  

The monkeys know the staff because they have to scare them away from the dining areas, and this includes the baboons who also move through the grounds.

We went on a few wildlife drives and a couple by boat.  The land based drives early in the morning delivered a few memorable opportunities.

First were some lions, in particular a large male frequently engaged in mating with a lioness and by frequently, that's exactly what is meant.

During rest periods it was time for food, in this case a baby elephant killed during the night before.
The male rests whilst guarding his current partner
Not far away from the 'happy' couple were two young male lions, full of energy and also eyeing off what was left of the elephant.
The large male seemed asleep most of the time and it was during this we learned a big lesson.  One of the young lions felt like testing his luck and whilst the large male looked asleep, moved in a little too close to the food on offer.

Almost explosively, the large male roared into action covering a 10m gap to reach the young male and clip him over its head.  The speed with which all this happened was a shock and simply taught us we would have no chance.

Also during this drive we had a few other magnificent sightings.
Giant Sable
Our first Cape Buffalo
Cape Buffalos are regarded as one of the more dangerous animals in Africa because they are large, unpredictable, cranky and do not give out any warnings before they attack.
Beautiful leopard staring down on us from its tree sanctuary
The boat safaris certainly brought us within close range of lots and lots of elephants and hippos.  Before even leaving the dock, a hippo decided to say "hello", well not really, but certainly did show us why they kill more humans each year than any other animal in Africa.
yep... they have big teeth
Now to the elephants and it was really good being able to watch LOTS of them doing whatever elephants like to do like rolling in mud, feeding and swimming/walking across the rivers.
Large elephants crossing a river
We did get to see something which looked a little comical and it came when the matriarch of a group of elephants lead them across a nearby river... there were little ones in amongst them.

So they followed her into the water...

...and the comical event happened when the trunks of the young elephants were used as snorkels during the crossing.
Our last boat tour in Chobe provided yet another opportunity whilst standing on the top deck of the boat.  Mike, our guide and avid photographer of birds especially, was chatting away with us, went silent, turned a little and then suddenly started clicking away on his camera.

With only a few moments to spare, managed to swing around, spot what he was shooting and also had a go.  It was a sole skimmer doing what they do best near sunset, hunting for food.
Hunting skimmer
We had all had a wonderful time visiting Botswana and with a setting sun sinking into the shoreline, a herd of Cape Buffalo bid us farewell with our departure in the morning awaiting.
Goodbye Botswana and thank you!

10 September 2012

Namibia 2012

From Cape Town we started heading west along the skeleton coast named for very good reason, there are LOTS of shipwrecks there.
Leaving the coast we drove into yet another haven for wildlife, the Kalahari desert where we spent a few nights in !Xaus Lodge.
Heading to the Kalahari past Quiver trees
To reach the !Xaus Lodge we had to drive into the desert
We each had our own hut to stay in
The Kalahari is famous for its wildlife and it certainly didn't disappoint as the few samples below hopefully show...
Pygmy falcon - smallest bird of prey in Africa
Lion nonchalantly strolling towards our vehicle
Mother caring for its 'baby'
Bee-eater 
Two cheetahs searching for prey... unsuccessfully
The Kalahari certainly did not disappoint and it was also the first time we experienced lions walking very close to our trusty troopy.

After the Kalahari it was more rough dusty roads into the wilderness in order to visit Fish River Canyon, the largest canyon in Africa with its giant ravine of about 160kms long, up to 27kms wide and in places almost 550m deep... its BIG!

Our accomodation for 2 nights was virtually on its canyon's edge, so sleep walking was definitely not recommended!
Look very carefully at the near right hand side of the canyon and you will see our row of accommodation on the edge
Now Namibia is renowned for being dry, very very dry, especially in the Namib desert...
Rest break driving through the Namib Desert
...but also in one of the most visited areas called Sesriem... the home to those huge sand dunes, stunning colours and the famous salt lake called Deadviei.
One of the many dunes in Sesriem at sunrise
The view to more of the dunes after climbing part way up another
The salt lake and 'skeleton' trees of Deadviei
Our cabin accomodation was very good as was the dining area, especially after a long day climbing the massive dunes or hiking into and across the salt lake called Deadvei.  A nice cold drink was just the thing as sunset engulfed us.
Rob in front of the very comfortable cabin with views to the dunes
Dining area in Sesriem
aaaah... watching the sun set
Many European countries have over the years immersed themselves into Africa and it was Swakopmund, on the coast of Namibia, that the Germans founded in 1892.  

This city is now a beach resort and it became our base to enjoy more of the wildlife found along the coastline...

touchdown!
There were literally thousands of seals along the coast 
Graceful flamingo
...but it was from the air we better appreciated the nature of the Namibian landscape, stunning indeed.
The landscape is stark but beautiful
However the wildlife was beckoning us yet again so we started the 500km journey northwest towards a very popular and famous wildlife sanctuary in Africa, the 22,270 squ km National Park called... Etosha.
A sign of things to come
This park gets its name from the 'Etosha Pan', all 4,760 squ kms of normally salt pan but before entering into Etosha proper we visited a village housing the Himba, one of the few remaining groups in Africa still living the way they always have.
Himba lady wearing her 'crown' from the time she reached puberty
The village was filled mainly with women and children, many of whom were attending an outdoor school in the village.  We were shown and taught elements of their culture and interacted with many of these very proud people through a local guide.
Girl enjoying a little decadence for them
They are covered in butter fat and ochre laced with  nice smelling oils
The warning of elephants crossing the road soon became very real as we drove deep into Etosha National Park, a large herd of these behemoths bathing in dust to protect their skin and keep the bugs at bay.

The wildlife certainly abounds in Etosha but here are just a few...
Typical pose by Zebras
Very rare black rhino
Hornbill 
Orynx looking out across the huge Etosha Pan
Albeit a very dry and stark country, Namibia is rich in scenery, wildlife and truly friendly people with a great sense of humour and as we passed increasing numbers of villages... 
Villagers collecting water
... and we were dramatically reminded why you never drive in Africa at night... animals!
Did not look good for the driver of the car.
It was time for yet another border crossing, this time into Botswana, so until then, go well.

Note:  In the last post of our trip through southern Africa (Zambia) is a link with additional wildlife photos.