The first destination we booked over 12 months before leaving for South America was to the Galapagos Islands, and the rest of our trip was planned around it.
Our 2 sons and daughter in-laws, all of whom had already visited the Galapagos, were definite that we should visit and they helped us understand what was involved.
For example, we could do all land based ‘tours’ using water taxis between islands, or we could do a combination of boat and land or just boat.
The challenge we also learned through them and subsequent research, was not all species of wildlife are found on all islands and for some, their presence is seasonal, like whales, as are breeding seasons.
Additionally, water taxis could not take you to some of the furthest islands where some of the more iconic species are found.
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| The Galapagos Islands |
We elected to spend 2 weeks, in fact 2 x 1 week tours back to back, on a boat called the Eden because it was the only one we found which visited all the key islands at a reasonable price, therefore giving us the best chance to see what we were most interested in.
Getting to the Galapagos first meant flying from Buenos Aires via Lima to a city called Guayaquil in Ecuador where we spent a night.
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| Buenos Aires via Lima to Guayaquil |
After going through quite a strict process at Guayaquil Airport next morning, where our bags were scanned for any food products, and needing to purchase the Galapagos entry permit, we then flew to the island (isla) of San Cristobal on the Galapagos.
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| Takes 2hrs to fly from Guayaquil to Isla San Cristobal |
There, sniffer dogs again checked our bags and mine was singled out for further inspection. The dog had picked up some soil on the bottom of my sandals and after a quick spray of something; Luis, our guide on the Eden for the next 2 weeks, met us.
Even on the wharf whilst waiting to board we started watching wildlife, with frigate birds above, baby iguanas, or having to skirt around the sea lions.
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| Waiting on the wharf with a new friend |
So over the next 2 weeks we travelled to many islands, each of which had either specific wildlife to be expected (hopefully) and other scenery. Below is a table of the islands we visited and landed on, apart from Kicker Rock.
Over 2 weeks we visited islands using the following routes.
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Week 1. (West to East) Route ____________________
Week 2. (North to South) Route ____________________
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We also learned as soon as we arrived into San Cristobal that it was breeding season, so many of the birds were likely to be sitting on eggs if not looking after new borns and this extended to other species like iguanas.
Other wildlife were also likely to be courting for partners to mate with.
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| Blue footed booby courting dance |
It was straight onto the boat, a quick induction before starting to meet the 13 other fellow travellers we would be with for week 1. The maximum number of passengers on the Eden was 16, so we all got to know each other quickly.
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| The Eden |
The Eden has a crew of 6 who were both good company but also keen to ensure we enjoyed ourselves and eat well… which we did.
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| Luis the guide on left with Eden's crew |
What a great bunch of people the other travellers turned out to be with a good mix of younger and older. Everyone was very respectful and helpful to each other plus getting on together extremely well.
With introductions to each other and lunch barely settled in everyone’s stomachs, the boat raised anchor and headed to Isla Lobos a short distance away. Before reaching this island, Luis and crew were fitting us with snorkelling gear for our first activity.
Shortly after, there we were, making our way into the cool waters of the Galapagos, enjoying looking at many fish when suddenly, young, curious and very playful sea lions turned up to play with everyone!
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| VERY curious indeed |
What an amazing experience to have them swimming around you, twisting and turning very close by, then coming up towards our faces and staring straight at us whilst blowing bubbles out of their mouths.
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| Sea lions playing with us |
What a great way to start our time in the Galapagos and something neither of us will forget, especially as now we have a lot of underwater video of the experiences.
For the next 2 weeks we settled into a daily routine of multiple activities involving the use of ‘pangas’ (zodiacs) to either go on land, or do panga cruises or use them as a launching place for snorkelling. A very loud ships bell signalled the start of each activity or meals.
No matter which island we visited there was always wildlife around or above you, quite often so close we had to be very careful not to step on them, including nesting birds, land or marine iguanas, lava lizards and sea lions.
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| Heron keeping Rob company behind her back |
It constantly amazed us just how close we would be to the wildlife, including very small birds, which would normally fly away from us at home. The rules were simple, stay at least 2m from the animals to ensure we neither hurt nor scared them.
It was also a surprise just how many people actually live on a selected number of the Galapagos Islands, something never seen or exposed in the multiple documentaries I’m sure we have all watched. For example, the population on Isla Santa Cruz is ~25,000.
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| Port area of Santa Cruz |
Luis our guide who was born and lives on the Galapagos, whilst having a very keen sense of humour, also had a great knowledge of the flora and fauna of the islands we visited, plus their history. Nobody is allowed on land without a guide.
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| Luis behind Rob waiting for a panga to arrive |
The 14 other passengers on the boat during week 2, were all very nice but due to language limitations, tended to break into groups during meals, the German & English speaking tables.
Our table being the English one, included some delightful couples from Holland and New Zealand who were a lot of fun indeed but we enjoyed everyone's company.
Our trips to land in the pangas were always eventful, after having donned life jackets and then either tackling a ‘dry’ landing onto steps cut into wet lava rocks then clambering up more rocks, or steps or a wet landing, which is as the name suggests, you step into the water, then go ashore.
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| On a panga heading to shore |
On one occasion whilst trying to board the pangas to return to ship, a group were almost washed off the rocky landing pier used when we arrived due to the rising tide and increased waves.
Our snorkelling activities were either commenced from the beach or a few off the side of the panga. On some islands the water was reasonably warm, but others required renting a wetsuit for the day in order to stay comfortably in the water for an hour or so. The Humboldt Current was returning already bringing cold water up from Antarctica.
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| All wearing wetsuits for the cool waters |
All the snorkelling activities were very enjoyable and how couldn’t they be when you’re either swimming with seal lions on multiple occasions or...
penguins...
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| Galapagos penguins |
sea turtles…
marine iguanas feeding underwater…
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| Marine iguana |
sharks…
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| White tipped reef shark |
Each day was very busy with at times 3-4 activities being undertaken like say 2x 1hr snorkelling activities and 2x 2hr walks on land and typically with 7am starts each day.
There were so many many other highlights during our time on the amazing Galapagos, but if we were to share but a few.
… blue footed boobies
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| Why they are called blue footed boob |
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| Blue footed booby mum, baby and egg |
...red footed boobies
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| Red footed booby |
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| Very graceful indeed |
…walking on lava fields
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| Some beautiful patterns in the lava fields |
...beautiful scenery after climbing mountains
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| Looking out over some of the Galapagos landscape |
… watching the graceful Galapagos (Waved) Albatrosses
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| Albatross having a stretch whilst sitting on its egg |
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| Magnificent albatross in flight |
If considering a visit to the Galapagos, which we would highly recommend, especially if doing some or all of it on a boat as we did, it would be prudent to research each ship and study cabin layouts and sizes.
Some of the crossings between islands are fairly long, like 7-10 hours and the long ones typically occur at night, when much needed sleep is required. Our boat rocked and rolled a bit during these transitions between islands, meaning we were a little sleep deprived the next day.
Since visiting the Galapagos Islands there have been two volcanos erupt, one on Isla Fernandina and the other on Isla Isabella from a volcano we climbed to the rim of.
After 2 weeks on the boat, we did enjoy a bit of chill time on San Cristobal Island for 2 days before flying back to Guayaquil on mainland to start the rest of our travels through Ecuador, so more on that next post… go well.
Awesome experience... another one to tick off the list of wonderful wildlife encounters. You are so fortunate.
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